RLS For China 2010 - A Retrospective [Part I]

I first became aware of the HAND organization through news of the traveling exploits of family friend – or should I say legend - Jeff McConnell. Originating in Kentucky, he had enjoyed a consistently turbulent career as an educator, whose methods would often lead to bizarrely mixed results. Just one of the many Jeff-related stories my father enjoys recollecting is about how Jeff was able to simultaneously coach an inner-city Chicago high-school basketball team to both victory and notoriety in the late '80s, cuts, bruises, insults and all. This is perhaps a story (or post) for another time.

Jeff lending a HAND in Yunnan

In any case, it was early 2010 and word had come through that in his usual off-the-wall style, Jeff had somehow found himself working for what seemed like a two-bit British-based Charity in the Yunnan Region of Southern China, which apparently provided medical assistance for ill and often impoverished children there. Having further researched the organisation, it turned out that my initial impressions of the charity had been somewhat correct – it was indeed a low-tech operation, but in fairness it did appear to bear all the hallmarks of an up-and-coming organization, apparently making a very real impact on the area it was based in. It was clear that numerous children, not to mention young men and women had been provided with the medical attention simply unavailable to them up until that point. The results seemed more visceral than the other charities vying for my attention at that point; obviously not one of the “charity tourist”* organizations I had grown so weary of when considering my gap year options.

I was immediately attracted to the HAND project – it was clear that this wasn't just another commercial charity with massive administrative costs and adventure holiday schemes that would ultimately wind up doing very little for the local population. A quick glance at the website demonstrates the unassuming nature of the organization, and the charity's independence was certainly a breath of fresh air.

After getting in touch with Gareth, the manager of the HAND and most, if not all, of the charity's initiatives, it became obvious that the main thing I could contribute at this stage was a fund-raising initiative. And so after some thought, and fresh consideration of a particular piece of literature that I had enjoyed in childhood, I made one.

* “Build a house and do the haka for £3000” - an amazingly common offer for kids fresh out of private school. I myself know at least two people who fell for this distinctly commercial, rather than charitable, arrangement.


TO BE CONTINUED IN PART II

The End of the Trail

With much relief I arrived finally at the Hawes Inn in Queensferry on Monday (28/06/2010) evening at 7:15 PM, and dined in the RL Stevenson room.

The Kidnapped trail was an excellent way of delving deeper into Stevenson's classic tale, and provided a beautiful panorama of the Highlands and Midlands. And while much has changed since the 1750s, it's clear to me that the compassionate nature of the highland communities remain. In retrospect I feel I should take a moment to show gratitude to the many people -particularly in Mull, Morvern and the town of Glencoe- who assisted me with supplies, donations and occasional accommodation. Under such circumstances, the charity shown towards Balfour and Breck is entirely believable, even despite their outlaw status.

These 250 miles have also represented a character-building exercise; unless one has been both hiking and camping, the immediate sense of autonomy and independence is exceptional. Being able to set my own daily goals and having to navigate the trail and landscape according to weather, resource and health conditions required focus and surprising degree of problem solving, and was ultimately hugely rewarding.

I'd like also to thank everyone who has been following RLS for China, it is much appreciated. Even though the walk has come to an end, it's not too late to pledge. Also, do continue to check the website, as I intend to continue making posts, and will be posting the full RLS for China photo album.

Not long now

Currently sitting in a hostel in Stirling! That means a mere 28 miles remain. I shall be finishing on the Edinburgh side of the Forth Road Bridge this Monday if all goes to plan.


I'm very much looking forward to go home; though equally I admit I'll miss this vagabond lifestyle. Everything seems that much more enjoyable when the pressure's off, and that's an exhilarating thing.

THE MIDGE; the unseen enemy

While potential hunger, thirst, sunburn and exhaustion have proven themselves to be serious possibilities, certain times of day have presented an even more immediate problem; the midge ('Culicoides impunctatus').

If you see a cloud of them, avoid it. Apparently it is only the females midges that pose a threat, congregating in warm, breeze-free and moist areas. If you do find yourself flanked by this force of nature, your only hope is to keep yourself covered, apply anti-midge spray (Avon Skin So Soft is also excellent) or smoke (perhaps the lesser of two evils). Let's not rule out flamethrowers either.

What a blessing it is that these two-winged insects only emerge between March and August -just in time for the tourists.

One Week Complete!

I am now at the end of the first week, with 76 miles behind, and about 115 to go. Making my way north through Morvern now, and hoping to be at the Connell Ferry before long, and then heading for Glencoe. Pictures from the walk across Mull have now been posted and can be seen by clicking on the image.

Balfour's Bay was one of the most scenic locations I've ever seen! Beautifully tranquil and virtually abandoned ... surely a well-kept secret.

2 days ago at Fidden I was caught in torrential rain for 10 hours; excellent weather now though.

I'm now at Pennyghael, heading off tomorrow for Lochdon! Phew!

On my way

Dear Everyone,

I'm sitting in an Oban internet cafe, and I'm pleased to say the walk has almost begun. I'll be making my way to Erraid soon, and properly setting off within the next 2 days. So far the weather's been better than I could have hoped for, and the scenery has been spectacular.

Plan to be in Balfour's Bay tonight!

A big thank you to everyone who has pledged so far.